Crafting A Longbow: Wood To Weapon

Building a longbow is a complex process that requires time, patience and a good set of tools. The first step is to find a suitable tree, preferably eastern hornbeam, Osage orange or hickory, with a diameter of two to three inches. The tree should be as straight as possible, with few limbs or defects. Once you've found your tree, cut at least six feet of straight bow wood and remove the bark. You'll then need to use a band saw to cut out the rough profile of the bow, before leaving the wood to dry for at least two months.

The next step is to begin shaping the bow. You'll need to reduce the thickness of the limbs with a scraper or farrier rasp, before floor tillering the limbs of the bow. This involves holding the bow against the ground and applying pressure to the centre to see if it flexes evenly. You'll then need to cut in the string nocks and string the bow with a tillering string.

The process of thinning the wood and refining the shape of the bow will need to be repeated until you can bring the bow to full draw. Once you're happy with the shape, you'll need to use sandpaper to remove any tool marks.

At this point, you should test the bow by shooting it. If it passes the test, you can start to decorate your bow. This might include staining the wood, adding a leather handle, or adding snakeskin, beaver tail, bone or leather details.

Finally, you'll need to make a bowstring. Traditionally, this would be made from animal sinew, but you could also use nylon paracord, a long shoelace or twisted plant fibres.

Choosing the right wood

Pretty much any hardwood will do the job, but some of the best options include yew, ash, hickory, maple, and oak. Yew, in particular, is highly elastic, compression-resistant, and rot-resistant, making it ideal for traditional longbows.

If you're a beginner, hickory is a great choice as it can handle compression and tension better than red oak. It also has good performance and speed, and it's easier to find and more affordable than other options.

Another good option is red oak, which is dense, heavy, and durable. However, it tends to be a bit knotty, which can make it challenging to work with.

If you're looking for something more affordable and readily available, birch is a great choice. Just make sure to go for yellow birch, as it offers the best combination of toughness, speed, and elasticity.

For a more unique option, consider bamboo. While it's not technically a wood, bamboo has been used for millennia to make bows and is pretty affordable, flexible, and low-maintenance.

Ultimately, the type of wood you choose will depend on your personal preferences, budget, and what's available in your area.

Shaping the bow

First, you need to select the right wood for your bow. Traditionally, longbows were made from hardwoods such as yew, ash, hickory, maple or oak. For a beginner, hickory is a great option as it can handle compression and tension better. The wood should be straight, knot-free, and around 5-6 feet long with a diameter of 1.5-2 inches.

Once you have your wood, use a knife or sharp tool to scrape off any bark. This step is important as it allows you to inspect the wood for any twists or knots and helps you get a better sense of how the wood flexes.

Next, you need to identify the "belly" and "back" of the bow. Hold the stave upright, with a loose grip on the top and the bottom against your foot. Gently press outward against the centre, and the natural curve will point away from you. The side closest to your body when you draw the bow is the "belly", and the outside is the "back".

Now, it's time to mark the handhold, which is the spot where you'll hold the bow when drawing it. Find the centre of the stave and measure or estimate 3 inches in both directions. Mark these points, as you will leave this section untouched to preserve the structural integrity of the bow.

To shape the bow, start by bending the stave again and identifying any spots where the wood isn't flexing evenly. Use a sharp tool to carefully shave away layers of wood from the inside of the curve, avoiding the outside and the handhold. Repeat this process, gradually increasing the pressure and adjusting the curve until the bow bends in a uniform shape above and below the handhold.

At this stage, the handhold and tips of the bow should remain relatively straight compared to the rest of the bow. Remember that the amount of carving will depend on the thickness of your stave.

Finally, cut notches on both the inside and outside of each bow tip to hold the bowstring in place. Make the notches on the outside curve no more than 0.25 inches deep and the notches on the inside no more than 0.5 inches deep. Position these notches about 0.5-1 inch from the tips of the bow.

And there you have it! You've shaped your longbow. The next step will be to string your bow, but that's a topic for another guide.

Stringing the bow

Now that you have your stave, it's time to start stringing your longbow. This process will involve cutting notches, tying your chosen bowstring, and hanging the bow to fine-tune its bend.

Cutting Notches

First, cut notches on the inside and outside of each bow tip. These notches will hold the bowstring in place. Make the notches on the outside curve no more than 0.25 inches (0.64 cm) deep, and the notches on the inside no more than 0.5 inches (1.3 cm) deep. Cut the notches about 0.5-1 inch (1.3-2.5 cm) in from the tips of the bow.

Tying the Bowstring

Next, tie your chosen bowstring around the notches. The bowstring should be about 8 inches (20 cm) shorter than the stave. Tie one end of the string around the notches at the bottom of the stave, then tie a slipknot at the other end. Flex the bow until you can get the slipknot over the notches at the top. Once in place, there should be a gap of about 5-6 inches (13-15 cm) between the bowstring and the handhold.

You can purchase a bowstring or use any strong and durable cord material that stretches only slightly under tension. Good options include nylon paracord, a long shoelace, or even twisted plant fibres for a natural approach.

Hanging the Bow

Now, hang the bow horizontally so it's positioned above you. Rest the bow on the centre handhold, above your head height but within reach, with the string perpendicular to the ground. If you're at home, you can hang the handhold from a bicycle hook screwed into a ceiling joist or rafter. Alternatively, if you're outdoors, find a sturdy, low-hanging tree limb to feed the bow over.

Fine-tuning the Bend

Pull down on the bowstring and fine-tune the bend of the bow. Pull the string down about 3-4 inches (7.6-10.2 cm) and observe the curve of the bow. Identify spots that aren't bending freely, release the string, and use a knife to carefully shave away wood from the inside of the bow in these areas. Repeat this process, pulling the string to 5-6 inches (13-15 cm), 7-8 inches (18-20 cm), and 9-10 inches (23-25 cm).

Finishing the bow

Now that you have shaped the bow and strung it, it's time to finish it.

Apply a coat of a protective oil, such as linseed oil or tung oil, to keep the wood from drying out. Use a natural bristle paintbrush to apply an even coat of oil, then wipe away the excess with a rag. Allow the oil to dry for at least four hours, and possibly overnight. Remember to throw the oil-soaked rag in a bucket of water and leave it there while the bow dries. Once the rag is dry, you can throw it away.

Once the oil is completely dry, lightly rub the entire bow with fine-grit (360 or higher grit) sandpaper. If you want to apply a second coat of oil, wipe down the sanded bow with a tack cloth, then apply the second coat in the same manner as the first.

You can also use sandpaper to smooth out the grip of the bow. Start with 60-grit sandpaper and move up to 220-grit to make the grip a delight to hold.

Finally, you can add a stain or clear coat to your bow. Many people also choose to paint the back of their bow. Lay out some wax paper, then use painter's tape to cover the areas you don't want to be painted. Spray paint the back of your bow with the colour of your choice. After the paint has dried, remove the painter's tape. After you've stained and painted your bow, coat it (at least on the belly) in polyurethane. Wait 24 hours, gently sand the bow with 220-grit sandpaper and coat again. Apply at least one more coat of polyurethane.

Making arrows

First, you need to select the correct arrow shafts. Target/Field Arrows can be bought from most archery shops, with the two most common types of wood being Port Orford Cedar (POC) from America and Pine from Europe. The diameter of the shafts is usually either 5/16 inches or 11/32 inches. The shafts are sold in 5-pound incremental categories for bow draw weights, ranging from 30-35lb to 35-40 lbs. The shafts must be straight and free of knots or bad chips.

Next, you need to cut the shafts to the correct length. You will need twelve shafts to make a set of longbow arrows. First, sand the shafts to get rid of any slight marks or imperfections. Then, use an existing arrow as a template to mark the correct length on the new shaft, remembering to allow for the extra length that the point and nock will add. Cut the shaft to size using a fine-tooth saw or hacksaw. Repeat this process for all twelve shafts, then bunch them together and check they are all the same length.

Now you need to mark where the cock feather will go. Look at the cross-section of the shaft at one end and see which way the grain of the wood is running. You want the grain of the cross-section to be running at a right angle to the vertical longbow when the arrow is in the string. Mark where the cock feather will go with a pencil.

The next step is to taper the shafts. Use a tapering tool to taper the end where the point will go, using the longer blade of the tool, and then do the same to the other end, where the nock will go, using the shorter blade. Make sure the taper is reasonably even around the shaft.

Before gluing on the points, check they are clean inside. Use a small cotton bud to remove any grease or dirt. Then, mix some araldite glue and put a blob around the end of the tapered shaft. Hold the point still and screw the shaft into the point. The glue should spread inside the point, and you can wipe off any excess. Check each one for straightness and leave them to set.

The nocks need to be lined up with the pencil mark of where the cock feather is to go. Use a good quality glue or fletching glue, and squeeze a small amount into the nock itself. Then twist the nock onto the shaft, which will distribute the glue around the taper point. Wipe off any excess glue.

If you want to paint your shafts, it is best to do this before putting the feathers on. Take your feather and put it in the clamp of the fletching jig, making sure it is nice and straight in the clamp, with the rear part of the feather positioned so there will be about 2 cm between the nock and the feather on the shaft. The clamp may have a scale on the side. If not, mark it yourself so you are consistent in where the feather is positioned. Put the shaft into the fletching jig and then put the feather clamp onto the jig. Check where the feather is aligned on the shaft. A left-sided feather will be positioned slightly differently from a right-side feather. You may have to make small adjustments to the fletching jig so that the feathers are centrally aligned onto the shaft. Once happy, apply a thin line of fletching glue along the whole length of the feather, position the clamp onto the jig, and then gently press the clamp down onto the shaft. Once the feather is fixed onto the shaft, ease the clamp off and then rotate the fletching jig to the next setting and repeat the process until all three feathers are on. Always check the positioning of the feathers on the first arrow to make sure no further slight adjustments are needed to the fletching jig. Once all the feathers are attached to the shafts, take a sharp penknife or Stanley knife and trim off the very small front part of each quill on the feathers. They can often be rough and catch on your bow hand when shooting. Dab a small blob of fletching glue onto the little area you have tidied, to seal it and make it smoother.

Finally, stand the arrows up in a piece of wood with holes drilled for the purpose. Take fine sandpaper up and down the shaft to get rid of any bits of excess glue that may be around the point and generally make the shaft smooth for varnishing. If you are painting the shafts, do this now. When applying varnish, it is best to have a small fine brush to do the fiddly bits around the feathers, and then a thicker brush to do the shafts. Three thinly applied coats of varnish are usually enough. Once you are happy with your arrows, you need to make sure the nocks are opened or closed enough to fit nicely onto your bowstring at the nocking point. Adjusting the nocks is best done by using a cup of boiling water to dip the nock into, making the plastic pliable. Then, using the back of a penknife blade or similar, gently ease the nock open a little more, or squeeze it with your fingers to close it more. Trying to open up a nock more without doing this may cause it to snap off. The arrow should rest in the string when your braced longbow is parallel with the ground and then fall off if you give the string a sharp tap.

Frequently asked questions