Crafting A Reflex Deflex Longbow

Building a reflex deflex longbow is no easy task, but the results are a high-performance, aesthetically pleasing bow. The process requires a significant upfront effort, from designing the bow to gathering the necessary materials. The cost of materials can quickly add up, and the time commitment is significant, but with patience and dedication, it is possible to create a smooth-shooting, powerful bow.

Choosing the right wood

Wood Type and Properties:

• Elasticity and Strength: For the belly wood, consider elastic species like walnut, which can provide a good balance between flexibility and strength.
• Durability and Stiffness: For the backing, hickory is a popular choice due to its durability and stiffness. It can add rigidity to the bow and improve its performance.
• Weight: Heavier woods are preferable for the handle, as lighter woods can cause more hand shock and potentially lead to failure.
• Aesthetics: The visual appeal of the wood is also important. Some woods, like walnut, can add a unique look to your bow.

Laminations and Thickness:

• Laminations: Consider using multiple thin laminates (lams) instead of a single thick piece of wood to avoid splintering during the glue-up process.
• Thickness: For a 55# or higher draw weight, start with limbs that are at least 2" wide and 1/2" thick. Wider limbs provide more stability and help achieve the desired draw weight.

Form and Design:

• Form: Choose a form or template that suits your bow design. You can purchase pre-made forms or create your own. Ensure the form is wide enough to accommodate the thickness of your limbs.
• Design: Consider the amount of reflex and deflex you want in your bow. A reflex design promotes speed, while a deflex design offers more accuracy. You can customise your bow by adjusting the measurements of these features.

Glue and Adhesives:

• Glue: Select a suitable glue for bonding the wood layers. Some glues, like heat-activated epoxy, are recommended for specific forms and materials.
• Adhesives: Ensure you have the necessary adhesives and tools for attaching additional materials like fiberglass or bamboo.

Remember, the choice of wood depends on your specific requirements, skill level, and desired performance characteristics. Taking the time to select the right wood will ensure a smoother building process and a more enjoyable shooting experience.

Tools and materials

The tools and materials required to build a reflex deflex longbow can vary depending on your approach, but here is a comprehensive list based on the experiences of several builders:

• Ready-to-glue kit (bamboo and ipe are a good combination)
• Glue (enough for around 5 bows)
• Random lumber, C-clamps, leather tools, string, pulleys, rulers, silencers, etc.
• Bandsaw and belt sander (optional but can speed up the process)
• Bow press and associated hardware
• Formica or a similar material to create a non-stick surface
• Grease
• Hose (capable of being inflated to 60 psi)
• Bow oven
• Tape
• Plastic
• Saw for cutting glass
• Drum sander
• Angle finder
• Chainsaw file
• Maple, black phenolic, and zebra wood for detailing
• Epoxy
• Flemish string
• String dampeners
• Tru-Oil
• Minwax Wipe-On Poly
• Various grits of sandpaper (from 80 to 220)
• Power lam and tip wedge
• Laminates (lams) and other bow-building materials from a specialist supplier
• Ply layers to achieve the required thickness for the form
• Screws
• Planer
• Template to flush up the edge (e.g., a 2" flush-cutting bit)
• Hardware for the top of the press
• Board for creating fades in the tips
• Hickory for the riser
• Maple, black, and zebra strips for detailing the riser
• Shaping drum
• File

Bow design

The reflex-deflex (RD) longbow is a hybrid longbow that combines the aesthetics of a longbow with the performance of a recurve bow. The RD longbow's limb curves allow for a greater draw with a shorter bow length before stacking occurs. This makes it possible to achieve a higher level of performance with a shorter bow.

When designing an RD longbow, it is important to consider the type of wood used for the bow's limbs. Bamboo is a good choice for the back of the bow, as it performs well in tension, while a dense wood like ipe is strong in compression and can be used for the belly of the bow. The combination of these two woods can result in a high-performance bow.

The shape of the limbs is also a critical factor in the design of an RD longbow. The limbs should taper from a width of 1 1/2 inches near the handle to 5/8 inch at the string grooves. The angle of the string grooves should be 55 degrees, and the overall length of the bow will depend on the desired level of performance, with shorter lengths resulting in more aggressive reflex-deflex.

In addition to the limbs, the riser, or handle, of the RD longbow can also be customised. The riser can be made from a combination of woods, such as zebra, maple, hickory, and phenolic, and shaped to the user's preferences. The shape of the riser can be curved or flat, with curved risers requiring more upfront effort to build a new bow press.

Overall, the design of an RD longbow requires a careful combination of wood types, limb shapes, and riser designs to create a high-performance, aesthetically pleasing bow.

Assembly

I started by building my own press hardware for the new design. I calculated what layers of ply would get me the right thickness for the form, which needed to be 1 1/2 inches wide for this style of bow. I ended up being over by 1/32, so I made sure all the screws were sunk deep and ran it through the planer. I used the KennyM form, which is easy to use. It's half of the pattern, and you lay it out on both sides of a centre line and 1" off the bottom. I cut it out with a bandsaw as close to the line as possible, then used the template to flush up the edge. I used a 2" flush-cutting bit from MLCS Woodworking. The upper or lower bushing rides along the form/template, and the blades create a perfect surface.

I then used some Formica I had lying around from when we did our counters. I ripped a strip on my saw and used it on the form. It helps create a nice, square surface that is more non-stick than just the plywood. Before glue-up, I wiped a thin coat of grease on it. After figuring out the lower part of the press, I needed to create a template for the riser so that I could cut out the top of the press correctly. I cut and sanded a block of ply until it would fit nicely on the press with the lower 2 lams under it. With the back of the riser curved to fit, I then had to figure out a nice curve for the belly-side. There are only a few guidelines and a diagram to follow. The exact curve isn't critical, as long as it is the same on both ends and has the required taper at the ends (1/8" at 2" from the tip, 1/16" at 1" from the tip). Before glue-up, the tips have to be faded to paper-thin to blend with the lams correctly. I use a board behind the wood to keep it from breaking while I create these fades.

With the riser done, the top of the press can be finished and hardware installed. It takes a lot of time to get the press set up correctly so that the bows will come out right. After a "dry run" test of the glue-up, everything looked good for the real thing. I put a few little blocks of wood on the edges of the press to keep the layers from sliding around during the "squishing" process of the glue-up. The hose is inflated to 60psi and really puts a lot of pressure on all the layers. Since the longbow has 2 more lam layers than a recurve, there is more that might move around. I had to deflate and re-inflate the hose a couple of times to get everything the way I wanted. Finally, it went into the bow oven for 4 hours.

Finishing touches

Now that your bow is out of the press and cleaned up, it's time to move on to the final steps. Start by drawing your profile lines on the taped-up limbs, ensuring that about 2" from the fade-outs, the limbs are 1 1/2" wide. From there, create a smooth taper down to the tip, leaving the limbs 5/8" wide at the string grooves. Switch to a "beater" blade for sawing glass if you're using a bandsaw, as this will help extend the life of your other blades. Sand down the limbs to the line using a drum sander, and then use a long sanding block to remove any wavy bumps from the limb sides.

The next step is to mark the angle for the string grooves. Using an angle finder, mark 55 degrees at the grooves, and then cut the grooves using a 3/16" chainsaw file. You can add some extra detail to the tips by using a piece of maple lam, black phenolic, and a thin piece of zebra wood. Once you've heat-cured these additions, finish cutting the grooves and sanding the tips. You can also shorten the tips if you prefer a more compact look.

Don't forget to add some finishing touches to the riser as well. Adding some detail to the riser can really make your bow stand out. Try incorporating some maple, black, and zebra strips on the back and belly sides of the riser to build up the grip area. Once you're happy with the shape, it's time to move on to the finishing process.

For the finish, you'll need to use a hand-rubbed method unless you have the equipment to spray on a finish. This method can be time-consuming and frustrating as you'll need to deal with flaws and dust, but it will eventually result in a smooth and polished surface. Start by applying several coats of Tru-Oil, sanding between coats to remove any high spots. Once the surface is smooth, finish it off with several coats of Minwax Wipe-On Poly.

Frequently asked questions