Carrying The English Longbow: A Guide

The English longbow is a powerful medieval weapon, about 6 feet long, that requires a lot of practice to master. When carrying an English longbow, there are several factors to consider, including the type of bow, its size and shape, the materials used, and how soon you need to use it. If you don't expect to use the bow right away, it's a good idea to unstring it to relieve the tension and prevent it from losing elasticity.

The way you carry the bow also depends on the weather. In rainy conditions, it is advisable to unstring the bow and keep the bowstring in a waterproof pouch, as moisture can cause the string to stretch and break. If the bow is strung, you can carry it looped over your shoulder or on your back. However, a bow looped over the shoulder can hinder arm movement, so it might be more practical to securely strap it across your back, especially if you plan to carry it for an extended period.

Additionally, the length of the bow comes into play. Given that English longbows are typically 5 to 6 feet in length, carrying it over the shoulder might cause it to drag on the ground, especially for individuals of shorter stature. In such cases, unstringing the bow and carrying it like a long stick across the back is a more suitable option.

For horseback archers, like the Mongol horse archers who carried two bows, a combination of carrying methods might be employed. They might loop a shorter bow around the shoulder or attach it to the saddle for easy access, while the longer bow is securely strapped to the back.

How to make a longbow in 5 hours

Making a longbow in 5 hours is a challenging task, but it is possible. Here is a step-by-step guide to help you get started:

Gather Materials and Tools:

You will need a long, straight, knot-free hardwood stave, preferably about 5-6 feet long and 1.5-2 inches in diameter. Choose hardwoods such as yew, ash, or hickory. Additionally, you will need a bowstring, an angle grinder with a sanding attachment, sandpaper, hand files, clamps, and wood glue.

Prepare the Stave:

Scrape off any bark from the stave using a knife or sharp tool. Remove the bark to inspect the wood for any twists or knots and to improve the appearance of your bow.

Identify the Natural Curve:

Hold the stave upright and press it outward from the center to find its natural curve. This will help you determine the "belly" and "back" of the bow. The "belly" will be closest to your body when you draw the bow.

Mark the Handhold:

Find the center of the stave and mark a section of about 3 inches on either side as the handhold. This is where you will hold the bow when drawing it. Do not make any cuts or alterations to the handhold or the outside of the stave to preserve its structural integrity.

Cut and Glue the Pieces:

If you are using a combination of wood types like in the 5-hour project, cut and glue the pieces together. For example, you can use Red Oak for the back and Pine for the belly, ensuring the belly wood can handle compression. Clamp the pieces together while the glue dries.

Shape the Bow:

Mark the general shape of your bow on the stave, including the width at the tips and the handle. Use the angle grinder to grind down to your markings. This step requires time and concentration to ensure even grinding and flexibility in the limbs.

Add the Nocks:

Use hand files to create nocks, or notches, on both ends of the limbs for the string. These should be angled toward the "belly" of the bow.

String the Bow:

Create a bowstring by braiding together strands of twine or using any strong and durable material. String the bow by tying one end to the lower nocks and the other end with a slipknot to the upper nocks. Ensure there is a gap of about 5-6 inches between the bowstring and the handhold.

Fine-Tune the Curve:

Hang the bow horizontally above you and pull down on the string to inspect the curve. Identify any spots that aren't bending freely and use your knife to carefully shave away wood from the inside of the curve. Repeat this process at different string lengths to ensure an even bend.

Finish the Bow:

Apply a protective oil or varnish to the wood to prevent drying and improve its appearance. You can also sand the bow with fine-grit sandpaper and apply additional coats of oil or finish if desired.

Remember to always prioritize safety when working with tools and handling your longbow. This guide provides a basic outline, and you may need to make adjustments based on your specific materials and preferences.

How to avoid string slap

To avoid string slap when carrying an English longbow, there are several techniques you can employ:

Improve Your Grip

Have a firm but loose grip on the bow, with the bow handle settling inside your hand's lifeline and resting between your thumb and index finger. Your knuckles should be at a 45-degree angle to the vertical of the riser, and your remaining fingers should be off to the side, not touching the grip. This will help you relax your hand while still maintaining a firm enough grip to prevent the bow from slipping when shooting.

Rotate Your Elbow

Ensure your elbow is facing out in a vertical position rather than facing up. This will keep your arm out of the string's path and lessen the surface area for the string to make contact with. A simple way to practice this form is to place your hand on a wall, rotate your elbow out and away from your body, and then apply this form when holding your bow.

Adopt an Open Stance

Instead of the traditional square stance, where both feet are in line with the target, adjust your stance by moving your non-dominant foot slightly to the side. This will change the angle of your body and create more space between your arm and the bowstring, reducing the chances of string slap. Be careful not to open your stance too much, as this may make it difficult to maintain proper form and affect your accuracy.

Shorten Your Draw Length

If you find yourself reaching forward or creeping forward before releasing the arrow, you may need to shorten your draw length. An easy way to estimate the correct draw length is to stretch your arms against a wall, measure the distance between your middle fingers, and divide that number by 2.5.

Adjust Your Brace Height

If your brace height is too short, it can bring your wrist closer to the string, increasing the likelihood of string slap. To correct this, increase the brace height by adding more twists to the tip of the string, making the bow more "flexed" and increasing the distance between the riser and the string.

Strengthen Your Upper Body

Building muscular strength and endurance, especially in your core, back, and upper body, will help you control your bow and maintain better form, reducing the chances of string slap.

Use an Arm Guard

While proper form and equipment setup are crucial, even experienced archers sometimes make mistakes. Investing in an arm guard will provide protection for your forearm and wrist, reducing the impact of any string slap and giving you peace of mind.

Remember, when carrying an English longbow, always prioritize proper form, equipment setup, and safety measures to minimize the risk of string slap and other injuries.

How to find your anchor point

Finding your anchor point is one of the most important things in archery. Without a consistent anchor point, you will not be able to hit a target consistently. The anchor point is the point where you keep your hand when at full draw. This point is used as a reference for consistent shooting.

The anchor point is a spot on your face that your bow string hand, or the string itself, should touch when you’re at full draw. This can feel a little scary, but it is actually proper form.

There are different anchor points for different types of bows. If you are a beginner using a recurve bow, your anchor point should be the corner of your mouth. This is a good starting point because it is easy to remember, easy to reach, and easy to replicate.

If you are using a compound bow, you will likely be using a release aid, so your anchor point will not be at the corner of your mouth. Instead, you might draw the bow to the tip of your nose, the corner of your mouth, and the side of your chin.

If you are using a thumb release, you will often use your knuckles and anchor somewhere on or behind the jaw. If you are using a wrist release, you will turn your hand 90 degrees, making it impossible to use your knuckles to anchor. In this case, you can use your index finger and place it somewhere on or behind your jaw.

It is a good idea to have multiple anchor points, as this makes it easier to spot when you are inconsistent. A secondary anchor point could be the point of your nose. If you are at full draw, the string will be very close to your nose. If you turn your head slightly towards the string, you will be able to touch it with your nose.

Another secondary anchor point is the chin. Again, the string will be very close to your chin at full draw. If you can remember this point, you can use it as a secondary reference to check your consistency

A third secondary anchor point is the corner of the mouth, which is often used in traditional archery as a primary anchor point. Compound archers often use a kisser, which is placed in the corner of the mouth as a secondary anchor point.

When finding your anchor point, it is important to keep your head in the same position every time you draw. Your neck should be relaxed and your head should be in the same place. If you move your head, even slightly, your anchor point will change, and your shots will be inaccurate.

It is also important to keep your teeth together and not to chew gum, as this will change the location of your anchor point and affect the consistency of your shots.

How to aim with an English longbow

To aim with an English longbow, there are several methods you can use. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to aim with an English longbow using some of the most popular techniques:

Gap Shooting:

This method is often the first aiming technique taught to beginners and is widely used by traditional archers, especially in field archery where sighting aids are not permitted. In gap shooting, the archer adjusts the point of the arrow beneath, on, or above the centre of the target so that the arrow hits the centre when released. Due to the trajectory of the arrow, this 'gap' changes with distance and gets smaller until you reach your 'point-on distance'.

The Ring/O-Ring Method:

This technique involves adding a mark to the upper limb of the bow as a primitive sight. You can use a rubber band, loom band, or O-ring, which you place at the centre of the target or your chosen reference point when at full draw. This method is very popular for target archery with an English longbow as it allows for an under-the-chin anchor point, and the size of the 'gap' becomes less significant.

Ground Marker:

This method involves placing an object on the range as a reference point for your arrow point, usually at the beginning of a round. Unlike the O-ring method, you cannot adjust the ground marker during the round, so a poorly placed marker can be costly. This method is helpful for archers who struggle with target panic as you focus on placing your arrow on a specific mark rather than the target itself.

Instinctive Aiming:

Instinctive aiming is a technique where the archer shoots without consciously aiming. With practice and muscle memory, the archer develops the ability to point and shoot instinctively. This method is sacred to some archers as it allows them to connect with the roots of archery.

String Walking:

This method involves mapping out the arrow's trajectory on the backside of the shot, i.e., on the string. The archer moves their string hand up and down the string to find the right point to drag, altering the launch angle of the arrow. This technique is more accurate for getting tighter groups and is commonly used for modern bows rather than traditional ones.

Fixed Crawl:

The fixed crawl is a hybrid of string walking and gap shooting. It involves introducing the arrow with another nocking point, usually placed below its own. To find the correct hand placement on the string, you get away from the target by about 25 yards and look down the shaft to locate the spot you want to aim at. This technique is fast and easy for short distances of up to 35 yards.

Howard Hill Split Vision:

In this method, the archer's peripheral vision focuses on the bow, arrow, and fingers, while the target is in clear focus. The archer adjusts the position of the shaft to account for windage and makes elevation adjustments based on how the 'gap' feels. They release the shot when everything looks and feels correct.

General Tips for Aiming with an English Longbow:

• Choose a bow you can shoot consistently all day. Don't opt for a bow that's too heavy, as it can ruin your technique.
• Ensure your arrows are straight and matched in weight and length.
• Develop your muscles and muscle memory over time. Start with a lighter bow and progressively increase the draw weight as your muscle tone improves.
• Focus on a specific spot on the target, no matter how small, and let nothing else distract you.
• Stabilise your body and head position by putting equal pressure on the hand that holds the bow and the hand that draws it.
• Choose a reference point or anchor point, such as the corner of your mouth, and ensure you draw the arrow back to the same point each time for consistency.
• Practice until it becomes instinctual.

Remember to enjoy the process and have fun as you improve your English longbow aiming skills!

How to carry a longbow on horseback

While it is possible to use an English longbow on horseback, it is not very practical. Historical illustrations show that longbows were used from horseback, and Mike Loades has demonstrated that it is possible. However, it may have been done only occasionally as part of a battle or a rout, or more likely, while hunting. If archers did ride horses in battle, they would typically dismount and fight on foot.

Using a longbow on horseback would be very awkward. The bottom of an English longbow extends well past the waist even when fully drawn, so aiming at something below would result in the sharp end of the bow hitting the rider's leg or the horse's side. The rider would also be limited to shooting from one side of the horse unless they are ambidextrous. Longbows were also heavy, weighing between 200 to 300 pounds, and required a lot of training to use effectively.

For these reasons, horse archers typically used shorter and lighter bows, such as the Mongol or Tatar bow, which were easier to manoeuvre while riding. These bows were also more powerful than English longbows due to their curved shape, which allowed for more efficient energy transfer.

When carrying a longbow on horseback, it is not recommended to use a hard bow case as it can be dangerous for the rider and difficult to secure safely. A better option is to use a sling or a bow scabbard. The sling can be draped behind the saddle so that the bow sits behind the rider. Another option is to tie a loop below the grip of the bow and sling it over the shoulder. This allows the bow to hang by the rider's side and can be easily accessed when needed.

Frequently asked questions