Swivel Seat Upgrade: Livewell Boat Seat Transformation

Boat seats can be converted into livewells, coolers, or fish boxes. Livewells are tanks that can be used to hold live bait or catch. They are usually equipped with aeration and circulation systems to keep the water oxygenated and fresh. Boat seats can be modified to function as livewells by sealing the cavity and installing the necessary plumbing and hardware. This process requires careful planning and the use of appropriate materials to ensure a watertight and structurally sound installation.

Buy a pre-made livewell boat seat

If you're looking for a convenient, ready-made solution to convert your livewell boat seat to a swivel, then purchasing a pre-made livewell boat seat is a great option. This option eliminates the hassle of assembling and ensures you receive a high-quality, durable product.

One popular choice is the Moeller Deluxe Permanent Mount Swing Back Cooler or Livewell Boat Seat. With a 4.4-star rating out of 51 reviews, this product offers a generous 72-quart capacity and measures 37" x 18.5" x 34.5". It is well-regarded for its build quality, comfort, and ease of installation. The sturdy construction and comfortable seating make it an excellent choice for fishing and cruising boats.

Another option is the Wise 8WD156-784 Offshore Swingback Cooler Seat, which offers a 70-quart capacity. This product has also received positive reviews for its build quality, comfort, and value for money. It is worth considering if you're looking for a slightly smaller option.

When purchasing a pre-made livewell boat seat, it is important to consider the size and capacity that best suits your needs. Additionally, pay attention to the dimensions to ensure it will fit your boat comfortably.

By opting for a pre-made livewell boat seat, you can save time and effort while still achieving the desired functionality and aesthetics for your boat.

Convert the seat compartment into a livewell

To convert a seat compartment into a livewell, you will need to make sure that the seat has a hinge that can lift up to reveal a large, dry compartment underneath. This is because a livewell requires an aerator and a drain, which will need to be installed.

Before beginning any conversion work, it is important to consider the structural integrity of your boat. In some boats, the seats support the boat bottom and sides, so cutting into them could result in issues while on the water. It may be necessary to leave enough of the seat frame to retain the structural integrity of the boat, or to add additional floatation and floorboards to compensate for any loss of buoyancy.

One boat owner has suggested that it is possible to work within the flotation foam when converting a seat compartment, as this can act as insulation for the livewell. Another has recommended looking at a Lowe 14-foot boat with a factory-built livewell for inspiration.

If you are confident that converting the seat compartment will not compromise the safety of your boat, you will need to source the necessary equipment, such as an aerator and a drain, and plan how you will install them. You may also wish to seek advice from other boat owners or professionals with experience in livewell installation.

Use a separate plastic tub insert

To convert a livewell boat seat to swivel, you can use a separate plastic tub insert. This method can be done in several ways, each of which takes advantage of the properties of thermodynamics to separate the pieces.

One way is to fill the inside tub with ice cubes and cold water, then spray the outside tub with hot water or blow-dry it with hot air. The inside tub will contract due to the cold, while the outside tub will expand from the heat, making it easy to separate the two. Alternatively, you can dip the bottom of the tub insert into hot water while ensuring the top remains relatively cold; they will slide apart due to the difference in temperature.

Another method involves placing the nested containers in a bathtub or sink, depending on their size. Cover half of the outside container with hot tap water, and fill the inside container with ice and cold water until it reaches the halfway mark. After waiting for about two to three minutes, pull the containers apart. Similar to the previous method, the inside container will contract from the cold, while the outside container will expand due to the heat, allowing for easy separation.

Additionally, you can try using your fingers to separate the two containers. Insert your fingers into the gap between the two containers on one of the short sides, applying even pressure with your ring, middle, and pointer fingers against the bottom container and your thumbs against the top container. Usually, a little gap is enough to separate them. If they don't fall apart, try prying them apart at an odd angle by placing your hands on opposite short sides and using a similar prying motion.

These methods provide effective ways to separate the plastic tub insert from the livewell boat seat, allowing you to convert it into a swivel design.

Make your own livewell from a beer cooler

To make your own livewell from a beer cooler, you will need the following:

• A cooler (size is up to you but make sure it is big enough to hold the fish you plan to put in it)
• 1 aerator (match this to the size of your cooler)
• Metal straps
• 1/4-inch screws
• A drill and drill bit
• Caulk
• A small sealed battery (optional)
• 1-inch aluminium angle and 3M's 5200 adhesive/sealant
• A separate mesh "bait basket"

First, get the biggest cooler that will fit in your boat. Remember that you're usually only going to fill the cooler up about halfway with water, so a larger cooler will give you more capacity.

The main component of your DIY livewell is the aerator. Make sure you have one that works for your needs. If it can't pump enough fresh air into the water, it won't be able to keep your fish alive. Choose an aerator that matches the size of your cooler.

Next, figure out the best place to mount your aerator. You want it to be somewhere on the outside of the cooler where it won't be in the way, and make sure it doesn't interfere with opening and closing the cooler or transportation. Trace the outside edges of your aerator with a pencil.

Now, use a metal strap to create a housing for the aerator. Shape the strap into a crate that will hold the aerator in place on the side of the cooler, using your hands or a pair of pliers. You will need at least one horizontal strap and one vertical strap.

Once the metal straps are cut to shape, attach the aerator to the cooler using 1/4-inch screws. Drill a hole or two for the aerator line to go inside the cooler, around 2 inches from the top of the walls of the cooler. The number of holes will depend on your aerator setup. Select a drill bit as close as possible to the diameter of your airline.

Feed the airline through the hole to the inside of the cooler. Take another section of your metal wire and carefully screw it into the base of the cooler, just far enough that you can slide the bubbling end of the aerator underneath to keep it at the bottom of the water.

If you want to make sure the water stays cold, patch up around the hole you drilled with some caulk.

For added stability, attach a splash lip to the cooler by screwing on a 1-inch aluminium angle with 3M's 5200 adhesive/sealant.

Finally, add a separate mesh "bait basket" to complete your DIY livewell.

Install a fibreglass or aluminium tank

To install a fibreglass or aluminium tank, you'll need to take the following steps:

First, ensure you have the right tools for the job. You'll need a utility knife with sharp blades, a tape measure, a straight edge, and a putty knife. It's also important to wear protective gear when working with fibreglass, so get a two-strap mask with an N95 rating, gloves, a long-sleeve shirt, goggles, and a hat.

Next, prepare the batts of fibreglass insulation. You can buy pre-cut batts, but you may still need to trim them to fit your space. It's important to cut the batts accurately, as those that are too small will leave gaps, and those that are too large will bunch up and leave voids. It's better to cut the batts slightly oversized, and you can compress them slightly to ensure a tight fit.

Now you're ready to start installing the fibreglass. Push the batts to the back of each stud space, and then pull out the front edges until they're flush with the face of the studs. When you come to electrical cables, split the batts to fit around them. Tear the batt from the bottom and slide one half behind the cable, then lay the other half over the top.

For electrical boxes, pull apart the thickness of the batt and stuff the rear half of the insulation behind the box. Then, cut the front half of the insulation along the top and bottom of the box, fold in the cut tab, and press it into the stud bay.

If you have any air-conditioning lines, peel the insulation batt down the middle to create two thinner batts. Slip one behind the line and place the other over the line.

Finally, insulate around window frames with low-expansion aerosol foam insulation. Apply the foam along the top of each window, then fill in the sides and bottom.

Frequently asked questions