Laminated English longbows are traditionally made from wood or bamboo. The process of using laminated materials to make bows dates back to antiquity, but the method for creating laminated English longbows was developed in the 18th century. This was in response to a shortage of top-quality yew, which was needed to make the traditional English longbow.
The laminated longbow is made from a combination of woods, with the back of the bow crafted from an elastic wood that resists stretching and splitting, and the belly of the bow made from a wood with high resistance to compression forces.
The process of making a laminated English longbow involves selecting and preparing the wood, gluing the laminates together, marking and cutting the bow shape, removing nodes and shaping the bow, tillering the bow, and finally, adding finishing touches such as a leather handle or horn nocks.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Materials | Wood, bamboo |
Wood type | Hickory, bamboo, yew, lemonwood, ash, maple, bloodwood, rosewood, snakewood, Osage orange, ipe, purpleheart, Paduke, Pau amarilo, greenheart |
Glue | Cascamite, UHU plus endfest 300, Smoothe On, Resorcinol |
Length | 193 cm (76”) |
Draw weight | 40-50 pounds |
Draw length | 80 cm (31 1/2”) |
Thickness | 4 mm (5/32”) at the handle, tapering down to 3 mm (1/8”) at the tips |
Width | 3 cm (1 3/16”) |
Nocks | Buffalo horn, horn, or reinforced with ipe |
Handle | Leather |
What You'll Learn
Selecting the right wood
The basic rule of thumb is to have the back of the bow made from a wood with resilience to stretching and splitting, and the belly of the bow made from a wood with high resistance to compression forces.
For the back of the longbow, the most widely used wood is hickory. Hickory is favoured for its strength and high resistance to elastic forces. It also generally has a straight grain with very few knots or defects.
Another option for the back of the longbow is bamboo. Bamboo is technically a type of grass, but it has properties very similar to wood, including high resistance to elastic forces.
Other options for the back of the longbow include lemonwood, ash, and maple. These woods are better suited for low poundage, longer-length longbows.
For the belly of the longbow, you'll want to select a wood with a high resistance to compression forces without displaying any fretting or cracking. The most suitable woods for belly laminations are generally tropical hardwoods or woods with a high specific gravity (density).
Some of the best choices for belly laminations include lemonwood, bloodwood, (Santos) rosewood, snakewood, and yew.
Other woods that have been used for belly laminations include Osage orange and Ipe, but some bowyers have found these woods to be less reliable and durable.
Additionally, you can incorporate a third strip of wood, known as the core, between the back and belly of the longbow. The core wood is typically no more than 1/4 inch thick and often tapers towards the bow's tips. Woods that are characterised by their stiffness and stability, such as purpleheart, bloodwood, Paduke, Pau amarilo, and greenheart, work well for the core.
Through experimentation and trial and error, you can find the best combination of woods for your laminated English longbow.
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Preparing the wood
The first step in making a laminated English longbow is to select the appropriate wood for the back and belly laminates. For the back laminate, you can choose between hickory and bamboo, with hickory being the more widely used option due to its strength, resistance to elastic forces, and straight grain. Bamboo, on the other hand, is a type of grass that offers similar benefits to hickory but may be more challenging to work with.
When selecting hickory for the back laminate, you will need a piece of wood that is approximately 1-1/2" thick, while for bamboo, you will require a log with a diameter of 10-15 cm (4-6 inches). It is important to ensure that the bamboo log is free of cracks, as these areas cannot be used for the bow.
For the belly laminate, the recommended wood is Ipê, which is a strong and compression-resistant type of wood commonly used for decking. You will need an Ipê plank that measures 193 cm (76 inches) long by 3.5 cm (1 3/8 inches) wide by 2.2 cm (7/8 inches) thick. It is important to avoid knots when selecting the belly wood.
Once you have selected the wood for the laminates, you will need to cut and shape them to the desired dimensions. This process will involve using power tools such as a band saw, jig saw, or hand tools like a plane, surform, and sanding block. The back laminate should be cut to a length of 193 cm (76 inches) and have an equal distance from the ends to the top and bottom nodes. The bamboo back laminate should also be tapered, with a thickness of 4 mm (5/32 inches) at the handle, tapering down to 3 mm (1/8 inches) at the tips.
The belly laminate, made from Ipê, should be cut to the same length as the back laminate, ensuring that the center line of the bamboo runs along the crown of the laminate throughout its length. This step is crucial as it ensures the stability and accuracy of the finished bow.
After cutting the laminates to size, it is important to roughen the surface of the Ipê belly laminate using sandpaper. This step will enhance the adhesion of the glue during the next stage of the process. Additionally, wiping the sanded surface with acetone is recommended to further improve the gluing process.
The next step is to prepare a form or jig to which the laminates will be clamped together during the gluing process. This form should be made from a stiff and firm material, such as pine wood, to ensure it maintains its shape under the tension of the clamped laminates.
Now, you are ready to glue the laminates together. It is recommended to do a test run without glue to ensure that everything is aligned correctly and all the necessary tools are within reach. When mixing the glue, work quickly as the glue will only remain workable for a limited time. Apply the glue to both laminates, clamp them together, and leave them to dry.
Once the glue is dry, you can begin marking out the shape of your longbow. Using the center line as a reference, mark the outline of the bow on the back of the stave, including the tapers at the back and belly. This outline will serve as a guide for the initial rough cut of the bow shape.
With the outline marked, you can now begin cutting the basic shape of the bow. Use power tools for the initial cut, leaving some excess material to be refined later during the tillering process. This step will give you a better idea of the final shape of the bow.
The next step is to round out the rough edges of the bow. Using a rasp, round out the edge of the belly, following the marks you made earlier. This step will give the bow a smoother and more refined appearance.
Now, you have completed the initial preparation of the wood for your laminated English longbow. The next steps will involve fine-tuning the shape, adding accessories, and further refining the bow through the tillering process.
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Gluing the laminates
Before gluing, it is essential to prepare the laminates properly. Use sandpaper to roughen the surface of the belly laminate, which will enhance the adhesion of the glue. If you are using a wood like Ipê, which is naturally oily, wiping the sanded surface with acetone is recommended to facilitate better glue adhesion. Meanwhile, ensure the back laminate is cut to the correct size and free from any cracks or defects that might compromise the glue bond.
The choice of glue is also important. Select a suitable type of glue designed for woodworking and laminating, such as UHU plus endfest 300, Smoothe On, or Resorcinol. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing and applying the glue, as different types of glue may have varying curing times and application methods.
To ensure a strong bond, you will need a straight form or a stiff board to strap the laminates to while gluing. Cover the form with plastic wrap to prevent the glue from adhering to it. Additionally, perform a test run without glue to ensure proper alignment and have all the necessary tools ready. Mark the laminates with opposing marks or handle section indicators to maintain orientation during the gluing process.
When you are ready to glue, mix your chosen adhesive and apply it to the laminates. Clamp the laminates together with adequate and evenly dispersed pressure. You can use a rope or cord with slight elasticity to tightly bind the glued laminates, or you may opt for clamping. Ensure the form or board is stiff enough to maintain its shape under the applied pressure.
Allow the glue to dry completely. The drying time will depend on the type of glue used and the environmental conditions. Refer to the glue manufacturer's instructions for specific drying times. Once the glue is fully cured, you can proceed to the next steps of shaping and tillering your laminated English longbow.
Remember, safety should always be a priority when working with tools and adhesives. Wear protective gear, including gloves and safety glasses, and work in a well-ventilated area to avoid inhaling fumes from the glue.
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Shaping the bow
Roughing Out the Shape:
Begin by finding the middle of your bow stave, which will serve as the reference point for the entire shaping process. Typically, this is done by measuring and marking the centre point, with additional marks indicating the handle section and the start of the taper. A string is then used to find the ideal curve for the bow, with weights attached to either end to help visualise the desired shape. This process helps determine the outline of the bow, including the back and belly tapers, which can be marked and cut using power tools.
Rounding the Edges:
The next step is to round out the rough edges of the bow, creating a smooth and fluid shape. This is done by clamping the bow securely and using tools like a rasp to shape the belly of the bow. The goal is to gradually round the edges, following the marked lines, to achieve a D-shaped cross-section for the limbs, transitioning to a more circular shape at the tips. This process requires patience and a steady hand to ensure a symmetrical shape.
Attaching the Riser (Optional):
While not necessary, adding a riser (handle) can enhance the aesthetics and functionality of the bow. The riser acts as a stop for the limbs, preventing excessive flex in the middle of the bow. When attaching the riser, it's important to use ample wood glue and clamps to ensure a strong bond. This step can be tricky as the riser may move during clamping, so having an extra pair of hands is helpful. After gluing, it's essential to let the assembly rest for at least 24 hours before proceeding.
Backing the Bow:
Backing the bow involves adding a protective layer to the back of the bow to prevent splintering and cracking. For this purpose, hickory is an excellent choice due to its strength and ability to handle tension. A thin layer of EA-40 Bow Glue is applied to the back of the bow, and a strip of hickory, cut to the length of the bow, is carefully clamped into place. After allowing the glue to dry for at least 24 hours, any excess hickory and glue are gently sanded off, ensuring a smooth finish.
Shaping the Nocks and Arrow Rest:
The nocks, or notches, at the tips of the bow are crucial for holding the string securely. Using a file, carefully cut notches at a 45-degree angle on the back and side of the bow, ensuring a secure fit for the string without making the nocks too deep. Additionally, the arrow rest, which is typically located in the centre of the handle, can be cut and shaped using a rasp, file, and sandpaper. This process involves creating a sloped ledge for the arrow to rest on, ensuring a smooth release during shooting.
Final Sanding and Finishing:
Once the bow is shaped and all functional elements are in place, it's time for the final sanding. Using progressively finer grit sandpaper (starting from 60 grit and moving up to 220 grit or higher), sand the entire bow to create an ultra-smooth finish. This step removes any tooling marks and ensures a consistent texture across the bow. After sanding, the bow can be stained, painted, or clear-coated to achieve the desired aesthetic. Finally, a protective coat of polyurethane is applied, with multiple coats often being preferable, to safeguard the wood and bring out its natural beauty.
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Finishing touches
Once you have the basic shape of your laminated English longbow, it's time to move on to the finishing touches. These final steps will ensure your bow is both functional and aesthetically pleasing. Here's a detailed guide to help you through the process:
Sanding and Smoothing
Start by sanding the back of the bow with 120-grit sandpaper. Carefully round off the edges of the bamboo, creating a smooth and uniform surface. Flip the bow over and use a rasp to take off the edges of the belly wood. Round off these edges as well, using the rasp or a card scraper to remove any tool marks. Be sure to wear protective gloves when working with bamboo to prevent splinters.
Tillering
The tillering process involves making your longbow bend evenly by removing wood from the right places. This step requires time and patience, and you may need to break a few bows before perfecting the technique. Start by making temporary string grooves (nocks) and fitting an overlong bowstring. Exercise the limbs by pulling the bow to its current brace and then relaxing it. Gradually increase the tension, working towards your desired draw weight, and evaluate the limbs for areas that need adjustment. Mark these areas and carefully remove wood with a block sander or scraper, always ensuring a smooth and consistent finish.
String Grooves and Nocks
Create the final string grooves and reinforce them with horn or a piece of wood, such as ipe. You can also use horn nocks for a more traditional look.
Handle
Sew or glue a soft piece of leather onto the handle to provide a comfortable and secure grip. You can also shape the handle to your preference, using a rasp to form a pistol grip or any other design that suits your hand.
Arrow Rest
On the belly side of the handle, mark a 1" line up from the centre. Draw a box with one corner touching this line and cut out the marked section to create the arrow rest. Use a rasp, round file, and sandpaper to shape and smooth the arrow rest, ensuring it can securely hold arrows in place.
Final Sanding and Finishing
Perform a final sanding of the entire bow to remove any remaining tool marks and create a smooth finish. Start with 220-grit sandpaper and work your way up to 400 or 600 grit for an extremely smooth finish. Clean the dust off with mineral oil, and then apply your choice of stain or clear coat. You can also paint the back of the bow with spray paint. Finally, coat the belly of the bow in polyurethane, applying at least two coats for added protection.
Your laminated English longbow is now complete and ready for use! Remember to sign your bow with your name, the date, and its draw length and weight. Enjoy your handcrafted creation, and feel free to add further customisations to make it uniquely yours.
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Frequently asked questions
What materials do I need to make a laminated English longbow?
What is the process for making a laminated English longbow?
What type of wood is best for making a laminated English longbow?
Are there any common mistakes to avoid when making a laminated English longbow?