Creating A Recurve Bow Jig Template

Making a laminated recurve bow jig template is a challenging but rewarding endeavour. It requires a combination of woodworking skills, patience, and attention to detail. The process involves designing and crafting a jig, which is a template or guide, that will help shape the recurve limbs of the bow. This jig ensures symmetry and precision in the curvature of the bow, enhancing its performance and aesthetics.

The first step is to determine the desired shape and dimensions of the recurve limbs. This involves careful planning and calculations to ensure the limbs have the optimal curve and length for the intended use of the bow. Once the design is finalised, the jig can be created using materials such as wood, metal, or plastic.

The construction of the jig requires precise measurements and craftsmanship. It often involves creating a template that can be used to shape the bow limbs consistently. This template may be made from durable materials like plywood or metal, ensuring it can withstand the forces applied during the bending process.

The jig's design may vary depending on the specific type of recurve bow being crafted. For example, a swing jig can be used to cut an arc that matches the back of the riser, adding accents and colour to the final product. Additionally, considerations such as the radius of the curvature and the placement of the nocks are crucial to achieving the desired performance and aesthetics.

Overall, creating a laminated recurve bow jig template demands a high level of precision, creativity, and craftsmanship. It is a process that contributes significantly to the quality and uniqueness of the finished bow.

Choosing the right wood

When choosing the right wood for your laminated recurve bow, there are several factors to consider. The type of wood you select will depend on its availability, your budget, and the desired performance of your bow. Here are some of the best options for wood to use:

Maple

Maple is a common choice for laminated recurve bows due to its hardness, which provides a good "snap" that stores potential energy when flexed, resulting in more force for the arrow upon release. Maple is also flexible, making it ideal for creating the recurve shape. Additionally, maple laminates are often combined with modern materials like fiberglass to enhance the bow's performance.

Hickory

Hickory is an excellent choice for beginners as it is inexpensive and widely available. It offers strong bending resistance, making it suitable for backing, and it tolerates more wood run than most other types of wood. Hickory needs to be relatively thin when used for bow making due to its bending resistance. However, it has a high rate of moisture absorption, so it may not perform optimally in damp environments.

Osage Orange

Osage orange is known for its good tensile strength and super-compressed strength, contributing to the balance of the bow. It also has the unique property of not rotting, even when buried. However, it should be handled with care as it can bend easily when exposed to heat. Osage orange is generally more expensive and challenging to find than other types of wood.

Bamboo

Bamboo is known for its durability and can be affected by heat, resulting in increased elasticity. It snaps back well, providing more force for the arrow. When using bamboo, it is recommended to let the outer surface be the belly to ensure proper balance.

Red Oak

Red oak is readily available at local hardware stores and home improvement retailers. When selecting red oak, ensure you choose a piece with thick late growth rings as it is a porous wood. Despite being heavier, red oak still requires backing to provide good support for your bow.

Ipe

Ipe is a strong and durable wood commonly used for making decks due to its high resistance to decay. However, it is important to note that ipe may cause allergic reactions in some individuals.

Eastern Redcedar (Juniper)

Eastern redcedar, also known as juniper, is a type of juniper rather than a cedar. It is lightweight and brittle, making it ideal for creating recurve bows. It has strong compression but weak tension. One of the challenges with this type of wood is that it can be difficult to source.

Dogwood

Dogwood is a dense, strong, and high-compression wood commonly used in Europe for bow making. When selecting dogwood, ensure it is free of knots as they can cause the wood to crack easily. Over time, if the wood is too stressed, it may develop knots, increasing the likelihood of the bow snapping.

Cutting out the riser

To cut out the riser, you will need a bandsaw. The riser block is the handle of the bow, and you can choose the type of wood you want to use. The block should be 16-18 inches long. You can keep the shape simple or add accent stripes.

Once you have your block of wood, you need to trace the pattern of the riser onto it. You can use a template or draw it freehand. After you've traced the pattern, use the bandsaw to cut out the shape. Be careful not to cut out the shoulders where the limbs sit, and also cut out the arrow rest.

At this point, you should put the riser aside for about a week to let the wood settle. The sawing will have released tension in the wood, and the riser may develop a bow or twist. After a week, you can straighten the riser by skimming it over a jointer and thicknessing it down to the desired size. Plane the edge above the shoulder square and parallel, then use a marking gauge to mark out the shoulder.

Next, use the bandsaw to cut out the shoulder. It's important that the shoulders are level and square to the faces of the riser. You can use a saw and chisel or a power tool and a jig for this step.

Now, you need to create the arrow cut-away, which is the level face that ends with a lip that continues up in a sweep. This can also be made with a jig and router. The jig will hold the router level and create a clean arrow cut-away. Rout down deep enough so that 18mm of wood remains, which will position the arrow shaft centrally to the string.

The final step in cutting out the riser is to shape it with sanders, chisels, and spokeshaves. You can use a belt sander to shape the hand grip and a rounding-over bit in the router to speed things up. A spokeshave is also useful for refining lines, as is a scraper. An inflatable sanding bobbin is very helpful for this stage, but not essential. Try to refine the shape as much as possible before moving on to hand sanding.

Sanding and shaping the riser

Before you begin sanding and shaping the riser, it's important to select the right wood. Choose a piece of wood that is clear of any defects. Ideally, the grain should be oriented so that it is quartersawn, with the heart side facing the archer. The wood should be at least 90mm in width and approximately 44mm thick. The final thickness will be 42mm, leaving 2mm to accommodate any wood movement.

Now, you're ready to start the sanding process:

• Start with a coarse grit sandpaper, such as #60 or #80. This will help you remove any imperfections and create a smooth base. Use moderate hand pressure and always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Wear safety gloves and eyewear during this process.
• Progress to a finer grit sandpaper, such as #100 or #120. This will help you refine the shape and create a smoother surface. Pay close attention to the hand grip area and use tools like a belt sander or a rounding over bit in a router to speed up the process.
• Once you're happy with the basic shape, switch to an even finer grit sandpaper, such as #150 or #220. This will help you achieve an even smoother finish. Focus on the riser shelf region and continue to sand in the direction of the wood grain.
• Finally, finish off the sanding process with an ultra-fine grit sandpaper, such as #320 or #400. This will give the riser a very smooth and polished feel.

Throughout the sanding process, it's important to regularly wipe down the riser with a tack cloth to remove any dust or debris. This will help you achieve the best possible finish.

After sanding, you can move on to shaping the riser:

• Mark the center of the riser and the location of the limbs. This will help you ensure that the holes for the limbs are drilled accurately.
• Drill the holes for the limbs, making sure they are centered and aligned properly. Use a horizontal mortising table and a 9.5mm (3/8") bit for this step.
• Fit the brass sides. These will help position the limbs parallel to the riser. You can have these brass pieces custom-made by a local engineer based on your specific design.
• Sand the brass sides flush with the wood using a belt sander. This will ensure a seamless finish.
• Hand sand the entire riser, gradually increasing the grit from #80 to at least #320. This step is crucial to achieving a smooth and polished finish.
• Apply a water-resistant polish or finish. Since the bow will be used outdoors, it's important to choose a finish that can withstand the elements. Options include oil, lacquer, or oil/shellac/varnish mixtures.

Remember, shaping the riser is a time-consuming process that requires patience and attention to detail. Take your time and make sure you're happy with the shape and finish before moving on to the next steps of assembling your laminated recurve bow.

Attaching the arms

• Go and buy your attaching hardware. All hardware should be 5/16.
• Measure where the wood of your riser stops on your ski from the bottom. Draw a line across the top of the ski as a guide.
• Make points where you are going to drill that are directly in the middle of the ski. From the cut edge of the ski, make marks at 1" and 2.5".
• Using masking tape, tape the ski to the wood as best you can, exactly where you want it to sit when attached.
• Clamp the wood and ski down and, using a bit that can be used for wood and plastic, drill through the ski and wood. Use a 5/16 bit because that was the size of my bolts.
• Using a hole cutter bit, drill from the back of the riser, making the holes large enough for the head of the bolt to fit in. Drill the holes deep enough so the bolt sticks up just past the riser—maybe 1/4-1/2".
• After all the holes are drilled, use a nail set to hammer in the bolts so they fit snug, then add your arms and tighten them down with a washer and wing nut.
• Using a round file, work in some notches where the string will fit. Angle the notches away from the middle of the bow to act as a rest and prevent the string from falling off.

Now you have a functioning bow, but it needs to be tested before painting.

Alternative Method

• Purchase your limbs first. The international standard for archery is the imperial system, so your limbs will be 1-1/2” wide (about 38mm). Phone around archery stores to locate one that will sell limbs separately—second-hand are an option. Limbs of 28-30lb are a good starting point.
• The limbs sit in a pocket consisting of a shoulder on the riser and brass side pieces. The brass sides are set flush into the riser. A final thickness of 42mm for the riser, less the two thicknesses of 1.6mm brass, houses the limbs snugly.
• At this stage, the holes for the limbs can be drilled. The holes need to be exactly centered. Mark a centre line on the shoulder and then hold the limbs in place and mark where the holes need to be. In this case, a horizontal mortising table was used for the drilling with a 9.5mm (3/8”) bit.
• Now the brass sides can be fitted. The action of the sides is to position the limbs parallel to the riser. The brassware in this photo was prepared by a local engineer.
• He was presented with a drawing and the shapes were cut with a metal router. The holes for the #4 square drive screws were drilled and countersunk and a sink with an 82° angle was used to ensure a tight fit with the screw heads. Set your drill press to allow for the screw heads to protrude slightly—they will sand back flush to the plates later.
• Hold the brass plates in position and mark out the shape with a scriber.
• A laminate trimmer with a flat bottom bit can remove most of the waste and, importantly, keep the surface flat and level. Before routing, set the cutter depth to the thickness of the brass. Pre-drill the holes and fit steel screws first, then remove them and replace them with brass screws. The hard blackwood can break soft brass screws, and removing broken screws is a hassle.
• Without the use of specially made brass sides, an easier but more simplistic way to align the limbs would be to have the riser at 38mm (1-1/2”) thickness so the limbs were flush with the sides. Small shaped pieces of wood could then be fixed at the sides to form pockets for the limbs.
• The brass sides can then be sanded level with the wood with a belt sander. Now the whole piece must be hand-sanded up to at least 320 grit.
• Now the limbs can be fitted. I sprayed the original white limbs shown with a black enamel. Brass bolts with dome heads and washers have been used in this piece, but stainless steel is another option.

Final sanding and finishing

Now that you've crafted your laminated recurve bow, it's time for the final sanding and finishing touches. Here are some detailed instructions to guide you through the process:

Sanding:

• Start by evaluating the condition of your bow. Check for any gouges or damage, and consider how it was stored. Dampness, mould, or liquids can cause deterioration.
• When sanding the hand area and the riser shelf region, always sand in the direction of the wood grain. This is important to maintain the integrity of the wood.
• Begin sanding all wood components with #80 grit sandpaper. This will give a dull finish, which is intended to highlight any cracks or other issues. Focus on the wooden laminated surface between the fiberglass layers.
• You can use painter's masking tape to mask off the glass limb parts to avoid sanding them.
• After sanding with #80 grit, move up to #100, #150, and #320 grit sandpaper. This will help create a smoother finish.
• If there are any cavities, cracks, or sight holes, you can use wood putty and filling materials like toothpicks to repair them.
• Once you're done sanding, go over the entire bow with steel wool to reach any nooks and crannies. Remember to always stroke in the direction of the wood grain.
• Finally, use a tack cloth to wipe down the bow and remove any dust or residual glossy areas.

Finishing:

• For the finishing process, you can use epoxy sealers or high-gloss tung oil, depending on your preference and the type of bow.
• If you need to remove old varnish, use a plastic scraper and scrape in the direction from the riser to the nocks.
• After applying the finish, allow at least 24 hours for the bow to dry completely before using it.
• You can also polish the sight screw holes on the riser if desired. Use putty-coated toothpicks to fill these holes, let them dry, and then sand them smooth.
• If you want to add a clear coat to your bow, research the specific process for the type of finish you're aiming for.
• Remember, stripping the finish should only be a last resort. If necessary, use a refurbisher instead of traditional paint strippers to avoid strong chemicals that could harm your bow.

Frequently asked questions