Repairing Non-Skid Boat Decks: A Comprehensive Guide

Repairing a non-skid boat deck is a big job, but it's worth doing to improve the look of your boat and, more importantly, make it safer. The first step is surface preparation, which is key to achieving a professional finish and long-lasting results. The next step is priming, which depends on the type of deck substrate and paint being used. After sanding, the surface should be wiped down with a compatible solvent like xylene, dewaxer, or acetone. When it comes to paint, it's best to combine the mix-in and broadcast methods for a uniform grit pattern. To increase durability, non-skid additives can be mixed with two-part linear polyurethane paints. Multiple thin coats are preferred over one heavy coat, and it's best to avoid painting in humid conditions. Once the paint is dry, it's important to allow it to fully cure before use. For self-adhesive mats, ensure correct placement before sticking them down. When using a two-part epoxy, clean up any excess as soon as possible as it will quickly become permanent. Finally, regular cleaning and maintenance will help extend the life of your non-skid deck.

Surface preparation

Preparing the surface of your boat's deck is a crucial step in the repair process. Here is a detailed guide on surface preparation for repairing a non-skid boat deck:

Health and Safety

Before starting any work, ensure your safety and that of those around you. Work in a well-ventilated area and wear appropriate personal protective equipment (PPE). This includes safety goggles or a visor, nitrile rubber gloves, overalls that cover your skin, and a solvent mask.

Inspection

If your boat deck has previously been painted, inspect it for any damage, separation, or peeling. Check if the existing coating is firmly adhered to the substrate. If there are signs of cracking, peeling, or separation, you will need to remove the old finish completely.

Cleaning and Preparation

The preparation process will depend on the condition of your boat deck. If you have a bare fiberglass deck, start by scrubbing it thoroughly with soap and water using a stiff brush. Rinse it with fresh water and let it dry. Next, wipe small sections with a clean rag dampened with Fiberglass Solvent Wash 202. Immediately wipe each section with a clean, dry rag while it is still wet. Continue this process until the entire surface is cleaned. Finish by sanding the surface with 180-220 grit paper and removing the sanding residue.

For molded fiberglass decks, work in small areas and scrub using Fiberglass Surface Prep YMA601 and coarse bronze wool or a maroon Scotch-Brite® pad. Scrub in different directions and wipe off the residue before it dries. This will remove any contamination and create a good anchor pattern for the paint to adhere to. Rinse the deck with fresh water after completing this process.

Priming

Before priming, mask off the area you plan to paint. Choose the appropriate primer based on the substrate and the deck finish product you will be using. Refer to the product labels and data sheets for specific priming recommendations and drying times. After priming, sand the primer with 180-220 grit wet or dry paper to prepare for the next steps.

Priming

The need for priming depends on the deck substrate being painted and the type of paint being used. If the surface is bare wood or bare metal, a coat of primer is necessary (and a sealer for wood). A one-part primer is often sufficient, but a two-part epoxy primer will offer more durability and hardness. Bare fiberglass requires a dewaxer, scuff sanding, and a coat of primer when applying most paints; however, some paints like Durabak and KiwiGrip recommend primers only for bare metal and wood.

If you are using Posi-Grip, a product of Marine Innovators, to restore your non-skid boat deck, you don't need to prime. Posi-Grip is a sheet of gelcoat finished with the pyramid type of nonskid surface. It is about 3/32” thick and weighs about 11 ounces per square foot. The base price is $4.95 per square foot, plus shipping.

Application

The application process for repairing non-skid boat decks can vary depending on the products and methods used. Here is a step-by-step guide on how to apply a new non-skid surface to your boat deck:

Step 1: Surface Preparation

Start by preparing the surface of the boat deck. If there is any damage to the deck beyond cosmetic issues, address it first. Use a router or sander to remove any damaged or worn-out non-skid material, being careful not to grind down the smooth gelcoat areas too much. Ensure that the surface is clean and dry before proceeding.

Step 2: Priming

If the deck substrate is bare wood or metal, apply a coat of primer. You can use a one-part primer, but a two-part epoxy primer will offer more durability. If you're working with bare fiberglass, dewax, sand, and prime the surface. Some products, like Durabak and KiwiGrip, only require primers for bare metal and wood.

Step 3: Cleaning

After sanding, wipe down the surface with a suitable solvent like xylene, dewaxer, or acetone. Ensure that the solvent you use is compatible with the paint or coating you plan to apply.

Step 4: Non-Skid Coating Application

There are a few methods for applying a new non-skid coating:

• Paint and Non-Skid Additive: Combine the mix-in and broadcast methods for a more uniform grit pattern. Mix the non-skid additive with the paint, roll it onto the deck with a high-nap roller, and sift more aggregate onto the paint while it's still tacky. Once dry, brush off the excess and apply a second coat.
• Pre-Mixed Non-Skid Paint: You can use pre-mixed non-skid paint and broadcast additional non-skid additives for a more aggressive grip.
• Flexible Non-Skid Molds: If your boat has a patterned non-skid surface, you can use flexible molds to make professional-looking repairs. Coat the existing non-skid with release wax, then use a router to remove the damaged area. Position the flexible mold over the repair area, tape one end down, and roll it back. Pour catalyzed gelcoat near the mold and slowly flex it forward, using a spreader to apply pressure to the backside. Allow the gelcoat to cure before removing the mold and cleaning up any excess.

Step 5: Curing

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for dry time and curing. Allow the coating to fully cure before subjecting it to foot traffic to ensure maximum hardness and abrasion resistance.

Step 6: Mat Installation (Optional)

If you're installing self-adhesive non-skid mats, simply place them in the desired location, as contact adhesives do not allow for adjustments. For non-skid mats installed with two-part epoxy, decide on the mat's exact location before mixing the epoxy, as you'll have about an hour of pot life. Use paper templates to help position the mats accurately, and leave a lip around the edge free of glue.

Maintenance and Cleaning

To maintain your newly repaired non-skid boat deck and ensure its longevity, follow these cleaning and maintenance tips:

• Regularly clean the non-skid surface with standard mild boat soaps, household cleaners, and soft- to medium-bristled brushes.
• Avoid using bleach, chlorinated, or acid-based cleaners as they can affect the paint's colour pigments and UV inhibitors.
• Rinse the decks with fresh water after cleaning.
• To prevent mould and mildew, scrub the surface with an ammonia/detergent solution. For heavily soiled areas or mildew, use a more aggressive cleaner.
• Avoid waxing painted non-skid surfaces, as most non-skid paints and additives have built-in UV protection.
• Address any peeling or worn areas promptly. Scuff sand, clean, and touch up the coating to prolong its life.

Curing

The curing process is crucial for the durability and functionality of the non-skid deck. By allowing the paint to cure completely, you improve its resistance to wear and tear and increase its longevity. A properly cured non-skid deck will provide better traction and enhance the safety of your boat.

During the curing process, it is essential to keep the painted surface free from any foot traffic or disturbances. Make sure to maintain a clean and controlled environment to optimize the curing process.

Once the paint has fully cured, you can start using the deck. However, it is important to maintain and clean the non-skid surface regularly to ensure its effectiveness and longevity. Regular maintenance includes washing the deck with standard mild boat soaps or household cleaners and a soft- to medium-bristled brush.

Additionally, it is important to avoid using bleach, chlorinated, or acid-based cleaners as they can affect the paint's colour pigments and UV inhibitors. Rinsing the deck with fresh water after cleaning is also recommended.

By following these curing and maintenance instructions, you can ensure that your boat's non-skid deck remains in good condition and provides a safe, non-slip surface for many years.

Maintenance

The life expectancy of a fibreglass boat is unknown, but many are over 20 years old and still in good condition. However, the gelcoat surface commonly used in fibreglass finishing becomes porous and chalky over time and is prone to cracking. The gelcoat on the deck has a particularly hard life as the horizontal surface is constantly exposed to the sun's ultraviolet rays. While modern gelcoats contain ultraviolet inhibitors to protect the surface, they will only delay, not prevent, deterioration.

To maintain the non-skid surface of your boat's deck, it is important to keep it clean and free of salt spray and dirt. Regularly wash the deck with standard, mild boat soaps or household cleaners and a soft- to medium-bristled brush. Avoid using bleach or other chlorinated or acid-based cleaners as they can affect the paint's colour pigments and UV inhibitors. Be sure to rinse the deck well with fresh water.

To prevent mould and mildew, scrub the surface with an ammonia/detergent solution. For heavily soiled or mildewed areas, you may need a more aggressive cleaner. Pettit's Bio-Blue 92 is recommended, as it can also be used to de-wax or etch during surface prep. Durabak suggests using Lysol to fight mildew and stains, while KiwiGrip recommends bleach or a mild acid solution.

While waxing can improve topside paint, it is not recommended for painted non-skid surfaces. Most non-skid paints and additives have built-in UV protection, and the paint formulas include UV absorbers, making waxing unnecessary.

If you notice any peeling or worn non-skid paint, address it as soon as possible. Scuff sanding, cleaning, and touch-up painting will help extend the life of the coating.

The life expectancy of non-skid surfaces can vary depending on the type of surface (paint vs. mats), the location of the boat (UV exposure), and the level of care. In general, softer mats and one-part paints are less durable than harder mats and two-part paints. Recoating may be needed every three to five years, or up to ten years for two-part linear polyurethane paints.

Frequently asked questions