Replacing The Deck Of A Classic Ranger Boat

If you're looking to replace the rotten deck of your 1970s Ranger boat, you're not alone. It's a common task that's easier than you might think. The first step is to inspect the boat for any rotten spots or soft spots around the drains. Once you've identified the areas that need to be replaced, you'll need to gather your tools and materials, including a sabre saw, crowbar, hammer, chisel, pick, and a drill with screw bits. You'll also need marine plywood or PVC teak decking to replace the rotten sections. The process involves cutting out the rotten sections, chipping away any remaining pieces, and then cutting and fitting the new decking material. It's important to take accurate measurements and work carefully to avoid any mistakes that could be costly to correct. With the right tools, patience, and attention to detail, you can restore your 1970s Ranger boat's deck to its former glory.

Cut out the rotten deck with a sabre saw, hammer, chisel, and drill

To cut out the rotten deck of a 1970s ranger boat, you'll need a sabre saw, hammer, chisel, and drill with screw bits. It's important to be careful and precise during this process to avoid damaging the rest of the boat.

Begin by setting the sabre saw blade. First, drill a hole in the rotten deck and use a probe to measure its thickness. This step is crucial to ensure you don't cut too deep and accidentally damage the bulkheads or hull. With the blade correctly set, start cutting around the perimeter of the deck. Take your time and be cautious not to deviate from the rotten areas.

Once you've cut through the rotten sections, use the hammer and chisel to chip away any remaining pieces. You'll likely encounter areas where the deck is attached to the stringers and/or bulkheads with fiberglass putty. Carefully work on these areas to detach the deck completely. Be mindful of any screws or fasteners that secured the deck, as you'll need to remove them as well.

Use the hammer and a pick to chip away any fiberglass resin that may be covering the screw heads. This step can be tedious, but it's necessary to gain access to the screws and remove them. Once all the screws and fasteners are removed, you should be able to lift and remove the rotten deck section.

After removing the rotten deck, take the time to inspect the exposed areas of the boat. Look for any unprotected wood and paint it with a coat of resin to protect it from moisture. This will help prevent future rot and ensure the structural integrity of your boat.

Prepare the area by chipping away fibreglass putty and resin

To prepare the area, you will need a hammer and a pick. Use these tools to chip away at the fibreglass putty on the stringers and/or bulkheads. This will be a boring job, but it is necessary to remove the old resin from screw heads so that you can remove the old fasteners. You will also need to chip away at the fibreglass resin. This will ensure that you can get a good grip on the screw heads with a screwdriver and remove the old fasteners. Be careful not to damage the fibreglass underneath. It is important to wear protective gear, such as gloves and eye protection, when chipping away at the fibreglass, as small pieces may fly off and cause injury. Take your time and work carefully to avoid damaging the underlying structure of the boat. Once you have removed all the putty and resin, you can move on to the next step of replacing the rotten deck on your 1970s Ranger boat.

Cut new plywood or PVC to fit the deck

When cutting new plywood or PVC to fit the deck of your 1970s Ranger boat, it's important to take accurate measurements and use the right tools for a precise fit. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Step 1: Take Measurements

Start by thoroughly measuring the area of the deck that needs to be replaced. Use a measuring tape to determine the length, width, and radius of the deck, especially around the bow area. Take note of any cutouts or irregular shapes that need to be accommodated in the new plywood or PVC sheet.

Step 2: Choose the Right Material

Select a high-quality marine-grade plywood or PVC sheet that is suitable for boat decking. Marine plywood is designed to withstand moisture and harsh conditions, so it's an ideal choice for this project. PVC can also be a good alternative, offering durability and resistance to water.

Step 3: Mark the Cut Lines

Using the measurements taken in Step 1, carefully mark the cut lines on the new plywood or PVC sheet. Use a straight edge or a ruler to ensure straight and accurate cut lines. If you're replacing a large section of the deck, you may need to join multiple sheets together, so plan the layout accordingly.

Step 4: Cut the Plywood or PVC

Using a circular saw, carefully cut the plywood or PVC sheet along the marked lines. Take your time and wear appropriate safety gear, including eye and ear protection. Cut slowly and steadily to ensure a straight edge. If you need to make curved cuts, consider using a jigsaw or a handheld rotary tool with a cutting attachment.

Step 5: Test Fit the New Deck

Once you've cut the new plywood or PVC, dry-fit it into place on the boat. Ensure that it aligns properly with the existing deck and hull. Check if there are any adjustments needed for a snug fit. Mark any areas that require additional trimming or adjustments.

Step 6: Fine-Tune the Fit (if necessary)

If there are minor adjustments needed, use a drum sander or sandpaper to carefully sand down the edges of the plywood or PVC. You can also use a file or a rotary tool with a sanding attachment for more precise adjustments. Test fit the deck again until you achieve a perfect fit.

Remember to handle the tools with caution and always follow the safety instructions provided by the manufacturer. By taking your time and working meticulously, you'll be able to cut new plywood or PVC that fits seamlessly into your 1970s Ranger boat deck.

Paint the bottom with resin to protect against moisture

Painting the bottom with resin is an important step in protecting your boat from moisture. This is a straightforward task that can be tackled by any competent DIY enthusiast. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide to help you through the process:

Firstly, ensure you have the right tools and materials. For this step, you will need resin, paintbrushes, rollers, and protective gear. It is important to work in a well-ventilated area or outdoors to avoid inhaling resin fumes. Before you begin, make sure you are wearing gloves and a respirator for safety.

Next, prepare the resin according to the manufacturer's instructions. It is crucial to carefully follow the mixing directions for the resin and hardener, using measured amounts as best-guesses can lead to mistakes. Once you have mixed the resin, use a paintbrush or roller to apply a generous, even coating to the bottom of the boat. Make sure to cover all exposed wood surfaces, including the stringers and bulkheads, to provide a protective barrier against moisture.

Take your time with this step, ensuring that you don't miss any spots. It is better to apply multiple thin coats rather than one thick coat, as this will provide a more durable finish. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying time between coats.

Finally, allow the resin to cure completely before reassembling any hardware or moving on to the next step in your boat restoration. The curing time will depend on the type of resin you are using, the temperature, and humidity levels, so refer to the resin manufacturer's guidelines.

By following these instructions, you will effectively protect the bottom of your boat from moisture, ensuring the longevity of your vessel and avoiding future headaches caused by water damage.

Screw the new deck in place and fill the seams with fibreglass putty

Once you've cut out the rotten deck and removed it, it's time to fit the new deck. Before screwing it into place, paint the bottom with a liberal coating of resin to protect against moisture. You should also paint any newly-exposed stringers or bulkheads where you spot unprotected wood.

Next, use fibreglass putty to bed the new deck along the stringers and bulkheads. Screw the deck in position, then fill the seams with more fibreglass putty. Leave the putty to harden, then sand the deck until it's flush and smooth.

The next step is to mirror the deck with at least two layers of fibreglass. This takes around six hours and requires rolls of fibreglass fabric, fibreglass resin, paintbrushes, and rollers. It's important to follow the specific instructions when mixing the resin and wetting out the fabric, as one mistake can ruin the process. You can find more detailed instructions on YouTube, and it's worth practising on a sample of plywood and fibreglass first.

When replacing a piece of rotten deck, prepare (sand and clean) the fibreglass surfaces a couple of inches beyond the joint itself so you can overlay the fibreglass around the edges. When replacing a deck right up to the gunwales, you may want to run putty around the edges to create a radius, as fibreglass hates sharp angles and laying a neat 90-degree turn is extremely difficult.

Frequently asked questions