The rubber trim on a boat, also known as a rub rail, is an important feature that protects the boat's hull from bumps and covers the joint between the hull and deck. Over time, the rub rail can become worn or damaged and may need to be replaced. This process typically involves removing the old rail, which may include prying out the old insert and removing screws, followed by installing a new metal track and insert. The new rail should be measured and cut to fit the boat's dimensions, with special consideration given to the transom and corners where the transom meets the sides of the boat. The type of rub rail, such as coiled, semi-rigid, or rigid, and the choice between black or white PVC or a metal finish, can also be considered when replacing the rubber trim.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Purpose | Protects a boat's hull from bumps and enhances its appearance |
Comparison | Similar to bumpers for automobiles |
Function | Absorbs shock from minor impacts to protect the hull |
Additional Function | Serves as a cosmetic cover and helps seal the seam between the hull and deck cap |
Types | Coiled, Semi-Rigid, Rigid |
Materials | Vinyl PVC, Metal (Aluminum or Stainless Steel) |
Parts | Insert for the track, Track that mounts to the boat |
Appearance | Available in black or white PVC or with a metal finish |
Replacement | Not a simple task, requires time and effort |
Cost | PVC inserts start around $100 for a 24-foot boat |
Tools | Large, flat-blade screwdriver, Silicone adhesive sealant, Heat gun, Power screwdriver, Drill |
Time | Around 4-5 hours |
What You'll Learn
Removing the old rubber trim
The first step in replacing the rubber trim on your boat is to remove the old trim. This process can be time-consuming and physically demanding, so it is important to be prepared and organised. Before beginning, ensure you have all the necessary tools, such as a screwdriver, drill, and a putty knife or straight-blade screwdriver. It is also recommended to have a helping hand to make the job easier and faster.
Somewhere on the boat, there is usually a gap where the ends of the old rubber insert meet. This gap is typically located on the centreline at the stern. Use a screwdriver to pry the old insert out of the track and begin tugging. It should be possible to walk around the boat, pulling the insert out of the track. However, be prepared for hard spots where the insert won't budge out of the track. These spots are usually where the track has been bent due to impact. To free the insert, carefully pry the edges of the track with a screwdriver. Don't worry about damaging the old track or insert as they will be discarded.
Once the insert is removed, it's time to start removing the screws holding the metal track to the boat. Oval head self-tapping screws are commonly used for this purpose. To speed up the process and avoid self-abuse, use a variable-speed drill motor with a Phillips bit to remove the screws. Try to avoid damaging the screw heads as stainless steel self-tapping screws can be expensive. The goal is to reuse as many screws as possible to save costs.
When removing the old metal track, it is recommended to have two people working together. One person can handle the electric screwdriver while the other manages the floppy end of the track. As screws are removed, the track will become floppier, so work carefully to avoid damage. Old aluminium tracks can be cut into convenient lengths with a band saw for recycling through regular aluminium collection centres.
After removing the old rubber insert and metal track, it is important to clean any debris from the track channel. Check for any loose screws or places where the rail may have pulled away from the cap. If necessary, rebed and tighten any loose screws securing the rail to the cap.
Now you are ready to start installing your new rubber trim!
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Measuring for a new trim
Understanding the Components:
Before measuring, it's important to understand the components of a rub rail. It typically consists of a metal track made of aluminum or stainless steel and a moulded rubber insert. The insert is the sacrificial part that absorbs impacts and is designed to be easily replaceable. The track, on the other hand, is the more permanent structure that the insert fits into.
Measuring the Gunwale:
Start by measuring the length of your boat's gunwale. The gunwale is the outer edge of the boat's hull, where the rub rail will be installed. Measure both sides of the boat, as they should be symmetrical. Then, double the length of one side and add the width of the transom (the back of the boat). This will give you the total perimeter of the boat, which is the length of rub rail you'll need. It's recommended to buy a couple of extra feet of the rubber insert to account for any errors or wastage.
Considering the Width:
When choosing a new rub rail, it's important to consider the width. The critical dimension is the width of the new rub rail in relation to the old one. It should be as close to the original as possible. If the new rail is narrower, it may not adequately cover the joint between the hull and the deck. On the other hand, an overly wide rub rail may extend beyond the intended support structure.
Measuring the Insert and Track:
If you're looking for an exact replacement, measure the height and length of both the insert and the track. You can then compare these measurements to the specifications of potential replacement rub rails. Additionally, consider the profile of the rub rail and try to find a match. Alternatively, if you're starting fresh, you can use the measurements of your boat's perimeter as a guideline for choosing a new rub rail with the desired dimensions and profile.
Ordering the Right Amount:
Remember that the metal track typically comes in 12-foot lengths, so you'll need to purchase enough sections to cover your boat's perimeter. The rubber insert, on the other hand, is usually sold by the foot off a roll. Make sure to purchase an uncut length that is long enough to go completely around the gunwale. It's always better to have a little extra than to run short.
By following these measuring instructions, you'll be well on your way to successfully replacing your boat's rub rail, improving its appearance, and providing essential protection for your vessel.
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Choosing the right replacement
Type of Rubber
The type of rubber used for the trim is crucial. Common options include EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) and PVC (polyvinyl chloride). EPDM rubber is known for its excellent weather and ozone resistance, making it ideal for outdoor use. It also offers good flexibility and durability. On the other hand, PVC is a more affordable option that is easy to work with and provides decent impact protection.
Size and Fit
Ensure that the replacement trim matches the size and shape of your boat's existing rub rail. The trim should fit snugly within the channel of the rub rail. Measure your boat's length and beam, and double that sum to ensure you have enough trim to work with, especially when dealing with curved sections.
Adhesion
Some rubber trims come with pre-applied adhesive, such as hot melt or butyl adhesive, which helps enhance its grip and prevent slippage. This is an important consideration if you want to avoid the extra work of applying adhesive yourself.
Color
While this may seem like a purely aesthetic choice, the color of the rubber trim can also impact its functionality. Darker colors may absorb more heat, which can affect the flexibility of the trim. Additionally, choosing a color that closely matches your boat's existing color can provide a seamless and cohesive look.
Supplier
Consider purchasing replacement trim from a reputable supplier or the original equipment manufacturer (OEM). This ensures that you receive a quality product that is specifically designed for your boat model. Suppliers like Taco Marine offer a wide range of replacement options and can provide guidance on choosing the right trim.
Reviews
Before making a purchase, check reviews from other boat owners who have used similar products. This can give you valuable insights into the durability, ease of installation, and overall performance of the rubber trim.
Remember, taking the time to choose the right replacement rubber trim will not only enhance the appearance of your boat but also provide the necessary protection to its hull.
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Installing the new trim
Starting at the centreline of the stern, install the new metal track, reusing as many of the old screws as possible. It is not recommended to force the mounting holes in the new track to align with the old holes in the fibreglass. Instead, new holes should be drilled. This process can be expedited by using two electric drill motors: one for drilling the holes and the other with a screwdriver bit for tightening the self-tapping screws.
It is important to step back and observe the installation of the new track from a small distance every few feet. The track must follow the sheerline of the boat with no humps or hollows. Trust your eye rather than measurements. If it looks good, it probably is, but if it looks bad, then it certainly is.
Again, starting on the centreline of the stern, begin snapping the insert into the track. While there is a theory that the insert should slide smoothly down the track, this rarely happens in practice. Instead, the insert usually needs to be pushed into the track inch by inch around the entire boat. Work from the bottom side of the insert with a stiff putty knife or straight-blade screwdriver. Two people can make this process faster: one does the actual inserting, while the other uncoils the rubber and holds it in position.
Oval head sheet metal screws are often used to secure the ends of the insert where they meet at the transom. Trim rings can be used around the screw heads for a more attractive finish. Any gap between the ends of the insert should be filled with caulking. Black polyurethane caulk matches most of the black inserts available.
The only places where trouble may be encountered when installing a new rail are at the corners where the transom meets the sides of the boat. Aluminium metal track is soft enough to be bent around these corners, but this makes installing the insert more difficult as the channels that hold the rubber insert can become distorted. Careful work with a small pry bar or screwdriver tip can usually open up the channel enough for the insert to fit. Stainless steel tracks and many rigid plastic rub rails will not bend, and these require special moulded fittings to accommodate the transom corners.
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Finishing touches
Now that you've replaced the rubber trim on your boat, there are a few final steps to ensure a professional-looking finish and protect your boat from the elements.
Firstly, it is important to seal any gaps or joints in the new trim. A silicone adhesive sealant can be used to fill in any gaps and create a smooth, watertight finish. This will help to prevent water ingress and protect the boat's hull.
If your boat has trim rings, you can use oval head sheet metal screws to secure the ends of the insert, adding a nice decorative touch. Alternatively, you can fill any gaps between the ends of the insert with caulking. Black polyurethane caulk is a good choice as it matches well with most black inserts.
Finally, take the time to inspect your work and admire the results. Ensure that the new trim is securely in place and follows the sheerline of the boat. Stand back and observe the installation from a small distance, trusting your eye to ensure that the trim looks smooth and consistent.
By following these steps, you can be confident that your boat's new rubber trim will not only look great but also provide the necessary protection from bumps and scratches. Enjoy your refreshed boat!
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Frequently asked questions
The cost of a new rub rail depends on the material and length of the boat. PVC inserts for a 24-foot boat start around $100. New rub rails are also sold by the foot, with prices ranging from $6 to $8 per running foot.
Replacing the rubber trim on a boat can take up to a full working day.
You will need a large, flat-blade screwdriver, a heat gun, a drill, and a putty knife or straight-blade screwdriver.
Measure the full width of the transom and the perimeter of the gunwale. Double the gunwale length and add the transom width.