Perfect Aim: Mastering The Art Of Compound Bow Alignment Testing

Testing the alignment of a compound bow is a crucial step in ensuring accurate and consistent shots. Proper alignment involves fine-tuning various elements, such as the arrow rest, nocking point, cam orientation, and draw weight. The process begins by inspecting the physical condition of the bow, including the limbs, riser, cams, and strings, for any signs of wear or damage. The bow's manual and manufacturer guidelines are also essential references for making adjustments.

One key aspect of alignment is setting the centre shot, which refers to the perfect alignment of the arrow rest with the bowstring's nocking point. This can be achieved by measuring a nocked arrow off the front and back of the riser or using a laser or a bow square for a more precise adjustment. Additionally, the draw weight, which is the tension on the bowstring, can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the limb bolts. It is important to ensure that the draw weight matches the archer's upper body strength and draw length for optimal comfort and performance.

Another critical element is the peep sight, a small circular device attached to the bowstring, which must be aligned with the archer's dominant eye at full draw. The D-loop, a small metal or nylon loop providing a consistent anchor point, should also be aligned with the peep sight.

To verify the alignment, archers can perform paper tuning, which involves shooting an arrow through a piece of paper and analysing the tear pattern. This provides valuable insights for making any necessary adjustments to the arrow rest and nocking point.

Overall, testing the alignment of a compound bow requires a systematic approach, including pre-tuning checks, adjustments, and fine-tuning, to ensure accurate and consistent shots.

Adjusting the draw weight

The draw weight of a compound bow is defined as the force necessary to bring the bow to a full draw. It is important to shoot a bow that is set at the right poundage, as your form and shooting accuracy can be affected if it is not.

To adjust the draw weight, you will need to locate the limb bolts on your bow. These are usually found near the centre of the bow and lie in large circular knobs. The limb bolts attach the bow's arms to the riser. You will also need an Allen wrench, which should have been included with your bow.

Before you begin adjusting the limb bolts, put your bow into max draw weight configuration. Do this by tightening the top and bottom limb bolts by turning each three turns at a time. Check your draw weight with a bow scale; it should now be the maximum draw weight advertised by the manufacturer.

Now, to adjust the draw weight, you will need to loosen or tighten the limb bolts. Remember to do the same amount of turns to each bolt, to keep the cams synchronised and allow for maximum accuracy. One full turn of the limb bolts usually changes the weight by about two pounds.

If you want to increase the draw weight, tighten the bolts (clockwise) until both limbs are against the riser. If you want to decrease the draw weight, first raise it to the maximum by tightening the limb bolts, then unscrew the bolts one full revolution (counter-clockwise).

Check the poundage with a bow scale, and continue loosening the bolts one full revolution at a time until you reach the desired draw weight.

Finding the Right Draw Weight

Your ideal draw weight will depend on your upper body strength, your shooting experience, and your personal preference. It should be a weight that you can pull and hold for a few seconds without too much strain. However, a bow that is too easy to draw will sacrifice velocity and precision.

If you are not sure which draw weight to start with, you can use average standard weights as a reference. For example, smaller children (45-70 lbs) should start with a draw weight of around 10-15 lbs, while children (70-100 lbs) should start with 15-30 lbs. Men weighing 150-180 lbs typically use a draw weight of 45-65 lbs, while muscular men and larger-framed men use 65-80 lbs or more.

Remember, these are just guidelines. Do not shoot a bow if you are not comfortable with the amount of force needed to draw, as this can affect accuracy and even cause injuries.

Tuning the bow's rest and nocking point

Tuning the Bow's Rest

The arrow rest should be positioned in the centre of the bow. This is a good baseline, but slight adjustments might be needed later for tuning. Shoot several arrows at the target. If the arrow hits to the right of the target, move the arrow rest to the left in small increments until the arrow hits the target, and vice versa. This adjustment is called the centre shot, which refers to the correct alignment of the arrow rest with the bow's centreline.

Tuning the Nocking Point

The nocking point is the location on the bowstring where the arrow's nock (the slit at the end of the arrow that clips onto the string) attaches. The standard nocking point height for most bows is usually around 1/2 to 3/4 inches above the arrow rest's shelf. If the arrow is nocked too high, it can cause the arrow to fishtail. If it's nocked too low, it can lead to clearance issues and erratic arrow flight. To raise the point of impact, lower the nocking point slightly. To lower the point of impact, raise the nocking point. Make adjustments in small increments until you find the ideal nocking point height.

Fletch Contact Correction

Fletch contact occurs when the fletching of the arrow makes contact with any part of the bow or arrow rest during the shot, negatively impacting arrow flight and accuracy. To correct this, check the arrow rest timing and evaluate the arrow spine. If you are using a drop-away rest, adjust its timing so that the arrow does not make contact with it. Listen carefully for any sound of the arrow touching the rest. If the arrow spine is too weak or too stiff for the bow's draw weight and the archer's shooting style, it can cause the arrow to flex excessively and make contact with the fletching. Consider using arrows with a different spine rating that better matches the bow's specifications.

Paper Tuning

Paper tuning is a valuable method for assessing the arrow's flight and making necessary adjustments. Set up a frame with paper stretched across it, and stand about 6-8 feet away from the paper. Shoot an arrow through the paper, and analyse the tear pattern. A perfect tear should have one hole from the arrow point and three from the fletching. If the tear is irregular or shows signs of tail left or tail right, adjustments to the arrow rest or nocking point may be necessary. Make incremental adjustments to the arrow rest and nocking point based on the tear pattern until you achieve a clean and consistent tear.

Fixing fletch contact

Fletch contact can be caused by a variety of issues with your bow setup. Here are some steps to help you fix the problem:

Firstly, check your anchor point and draw length. Fletch contact with your face or head can be a sign that your draw length is too long. Try adjusting your anchor point to be in the middle of your lip and lower jaw, or slightly lower. Ensure you are not tilting your head down to see through the peep sight. If you are, raise the peep sight and adjust your pins accordingly.

Secondly, check your nock position and arrow rest. Try rotating your nock so that the cock vane is pointed away from the riser. This will put the least amount of fletching near your face. If this does not solve the issue, try moving the fletching up the arrow shaft by about half an inch. You can also try raising the arrow rest so that the bottom of the arrow shaft is at the top or middle of the Berger hole.

Thirdly, inspect your equipment for any signs of wear and tear. Ensure your fletchings are not hitting your equipment, as this will cause poor arrow flight. You can use "The Powder Test" to check for fletching contact. Simply powder the arrow and fletchings with baby powder, aerosol foot spray, or lipstick. Draw and release the arrow, then inspect for any changes in the powder. If powder is missing on the low side of the arrow, adjust the nock point. If powder is missing on the side, adjust your center shot.

Finally, if you are still experiencing fletching contact, consider switching to a lower profile fletching, such as a 3" feather or vane. Additionally, ensure that your bow is properly tuned and your rest is timed correctly. If you are unsure how to make these adjustments, consult a professional bow technician or visit your local archery shop for assistance.

Paper tuning

To perform paper tuning, set up a frame with paper stretched across it. Stand about 6-8 feet away from the paper and shoot an arrow through it. The tear in the paper will reveal how the arrow is flying.

Analysing the tear pattern is essential for identifying any adjustments needed. A perfect tear should have one hole from the arrow point and three from the fletching. If the tear is irregular or shows signs of tail left or tail right, adjustments to the arrow rest or nocking point may be necessary.

Make incremental adjustments to the arrow rest (horizontal inconsistencies) and nocking point (vertical inconsistencies) based on the tear pattern until you achieve a clean and consistent tear. This process may require multiple attempts and adjustments to fine-tune your bow's performance.

• Are you shooting with a torque-free grip?
• Are you shooting the right draw length?
• Are you shooting an arrow with a proper spine?
• Are you shooting with good form?
• Has your arrow rest been set up properly and is it not interfering with the fletchings of your arrows?
• If shooting a solo cam, have you yoke tuned and checked the timing?
• If shooting a two-cam bow, have you checked the timing?
• Is your bow to spec?

Walk-back tuning

To perform walk-back tuning, you will need a target with around three feet of vertical space, a string or small-diameter rope with a weight attached, and an aiming point.

• Hang a string with a weight attached from a target wall to create a plumb line.
• Mark a bullseye in the middle of the line and at the top section of the target wall.
• Dial in a 20-yard pin and take a shot at the bullseye.
• Move back in 10-yard increments (to 30, 35, and 40 yards) and take a shot at the bullseye with the same 20-yard pin.
• If your arrows are drifting left or right, adjust your arrow rest in the opposite direction. Make small adjustments until your arrows stack perfectly, then lock in your arrow rest's setting.

A modified French tuning is a shortened version of walk-back tuning. It involves taking a shot at a bullseye from 3 yards, adjusting your pin to hit the bullseye, and then walking back to 10 yards. If the arrow hits left or right at 10 yards, move your rest in the opposite direction and repeat the process until you are hitting the bullseye at both distances.

Frequently asked questions